Marzapane

2 Reviews on “Marzapane”

• Always Eating

  What a treat for me during Taste of Roma to sample great plates from great chefs, but only one of them truly conquered me body and soul: Chef Alba Esteve Ruiz’s corn fettuccine with brown cippollotto and pork popcorn. It was perfect. Just the right charge of flavor, almost borderline too much, but stopping short of exaggeration which makes it masterful. Mix it all together and then savor it. The fresh corn fettuccine melting in your mouth while the pork gives crunch and substance to the plate and the saltiness is cut by the savory sweet onion. I felt deep melancholy when there was nothing left in the plate. The memory of pure satisfaction torn asunder by the real fact that the experience was over. The essence of a culinary experience is getting just a glimmer of the creative genius and then the curtain is dropped and with mixed emotions you must shuffle out of the theatre and head home hoping that the memory of such great entertainment does not fade anytime soon. My next destination is Marzapane.–Non ho dubbi che le fettuccine di mais con fondo bruno, cipollotto e popcorn di maiale di Chef Alba Esteve Ruiz era il piatti che ricorderò sempre del Taste of Roma. Mi ha conquistato “body and soul”. Perfetto. Sapore forte e deciso che però si ferma prima di esagerare con gran maestria. Mischia tutto insieme e poggia sul palato. Le fettuccine che si squagliano mentre il “popcorn” di maiale schioppetta sotto i denti e il salato viene smorzato dal agrodolce dei cipollotti. Melanconia per il piatto rimasto vuoto. La memoria di pura soddisfazione distrutta dalla realtà crudelissima che l’esperienza è finita. L’assaggio del genio creativo celato nuovamente da un velo che annuncio la fina dello spettacolo e adesso tocca tornare a casa sperando che quella memoria non vada presto dimenticata. La prossima tappa per me è Marzapane.

  January 26, 2020, 12:47 am

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• Michael U.

  Although Chef Alba Esteve Ruiz left Marzapane in 2018 the Restaurant at Via Velletri 39 has persevered, and guided by the vision of Chef Francesco Capuzzo Dolcetta, Marzapane now proposes a seasonal menu full of bold flavors at a fair price whether one selects the €50-to-€65 tasting or a la carte options.A Michelin Guide Restaurant, though not currently starred, it is in a Scandinavian-leaning dining room that guests are seated starting at 19h30, the kitchen visible through glass pristine and well-appointed with everything from flat-tops to a Big Green Egg.Best defined as a Trattoria, but more avant-garde than many of Rome’s time-tested Restaurants, a quick look at the menu shows several classics alongside more experimental plates, the willingness to test boundaries without eschewing history easily appreciated by those seeking something a little different.Situated a good distance from tourist attractions, and thus a largely locals destination, diners can still expect English-friendly service, Water plus well-priced Wine getting things started alongside complimentary Focaccia and Marzapane’s daily “Gastronomia” consisting of handmade Ox Tongue Headcheese, Grilled Eel, Pork Meatballs and Sheep’s Cheese.A sizable starter, though that is not to say primi or secondi skimp in terms of portion, Pastas next arrived in two rounds, the Rigatoni slick with Eggs and Pork Cheek a peerless specimen while Candela Spezzata “alla Genovese” took a backseat to more compelling Corzetto with Eel and Ginger plus Capellino that marries melted Beef Fat with a hint of Licorice.Selecting wild-shot Duck to share, three nearly-raw slices defiantly standing alongside smashed Potatoes and reduced Game Jus, Dessert followed as a trio, Quince Confit atop dry Bread texturally odd but nicely flavored while Custard-soaked Brioche and aromatic Crème Caramel each stepped away from the traditional Trattoria with stunning results.

  October 3, 2019, 10:16 pm

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